SEPTEMPER 02, 2017
In this week we have chosen to look into the jumpsuit as it is the type of garment that both has an exciting history and has endless possibilities in its appearance.
The jumpsuit as we know it today has been with us for at least the last one-hundred years. It has changed its appearance in relation to the decade its from and what it has been used for. It has been used by the Air Force, parachutists and skydivers, but it has also found its way into the women's wardrobe. Especially designers like Coco Chanel, Elisa Schiaparelli and Emilio Pucci had a great influence on how the jumpsuit has appeared over time. It has been made in many different materials ranging from canvas to silk in relation to whether it should be used as workwear or as evening wear. In the form of Rosie the Riveter in a blue canvas jumpsuit it has been part of the symbol of the women's empowerment and in the disco era the jumpsuit peaked as an outfit with pop stars like Cher and Abba.
Today, the jumpsuit is often seen in a more casual and feminine model in light materials or as a slightly more cool model in a heavier material, but in both cases the jumpsuit can be both everyday wear and evening wear.
If you think it would be fun to make a pattern for a jumpsuit you should start by collecting your inspiration. Below we have selected some pictures showing different jumpsuits from the last hundred years till today that you can get inspiration from.
Photos from left: unknown, unknown at memorandum.com, unknown, Filly at fillydesign.com, Lauren Bacall (Photo by John Kobal Foundation/Getty Images), unknown at farfetch.com, Joan Crawford unknown, By Natacha Baco by-natachabaco.com, Ernesto Michahelles unknown, Clare Potter unknown.
>>You can follow us on Pinterest here if you want to see what we are inspired by <<
DRAW YOUR JUMPSUIT
Once you have decided what details you want for your jumpsuit, start drawing how you want it to look. That will make the pattern cutting easier, cause while you are drawing you have to decide how you want your dress to look. For example you have to decide which sleeves should be added, the length of the sleeves, if there should be some intersections, openings etc. We have made some simple illustrations of how to add different details to the basic jumpsuit, which you can use as inspiration.
Illustrations of different jumpsuits by CUT UP STUDIO
From left: Short jumpsuit with a v-neckline and short kimono sleeves, double breasted wide leg jumpsuit with lapel and collar, jumpsuit with a Peter Pan collar and short kimono sleeves, wide leg jumpsuit with pockets and slim kimono sleeves.
FIND YOUR INSTRUCTIONS
Once you have drawn how you want your jumpsuit to look, you can find the different instructions you need. To get to the basic jumpsuit used for all the illustrations above, you can use the following instructions:
>> Want to learn how to make a basic block? Read our blog post How to use our instructions on basic blocks to get a detailed tutorial on drafting basic blocs <<
With the instructions above you can make a basic jumpsuit that you can make into exactly the type of jumpsuit you like. Start by making the basic patterns you need if you do not already have made them and fit them to your body. then copy the patterns and put the bodice part and the trouser part together as told int he jumpsuit instruction. When you are satisfied with the shape of your jumpsuit you can add the details you want to make it into your own design. You can combine instructions on different parts and get exactly the pattern you want. Once you have found the instructions you need, you can start making your pattern. We have used the following instructions for our illustrations:
MAKE YOUR FULL SIZE PATTERN
As you may have noticed already, our instructions are not instructions on a finished pattern, but instructions on the different types of silhouettes and details you can find within pattern cutting, such as how to make a specific type of collar, a specific type of sleeve or a specific type of silhouette. Use our instructions as your basic tutorials and develop you own designs for your garments.
>> We would like to see what you create! Be a part of our community for pattern makers here and show us what you make from our instructions. Share your ideas, tips and tricks with us and every one in there <<
Let us know what you think!
Helle & Christina
HOW TO USE OUR INSTRUCTIONS ON BASIC BLOCKS
Are you new in pattern cutting? Or do you want to practice drafting the basic blocks?
In this post we review in quarter size how to make the basic dress block.
PATTERN OF THE WEEK:
THE OVERSIZE COAT
The oversized look has been here over the past many decades. Of course, over time it has been various parts of the clothing that have been oversized from accessories to outerwear.