AUGUST 19, 2017





Pattern of the week: The oversize coat

The oversized look has been here over the past many decades. Of course, over time it has been various parts of the clothing that have been oversized from accessories to outerwear. In this week, we have chosen to review the oversized coat and will show you how to combine different instructions on pattern cutting, so you will end up having a pattern on your own oversized coat.

The oversized coat is just one of several variations of the basic coat block. We think the coat block itself is very excited to work with. It has so many variations and it is one of the types of garments where you can really experiment with shapes and functions.

If you think it would be fun to make a pattern for an oversized coat, it might be a good idea to start finding some inspiration. Below we have selected some pictures showing different oversize coats that you can get inspiration from. If you look at the pictures you will see that they have some common features; There is a lot of width in the coat and the shoulder is dropped one way or another. Then they begin to stand out from each other in terms of lengths, sleeves, pockets, collars and lapels.


Photos from left: Max Mara at bloomingdales.com, Chloe at vogue.com, Lanvin-Castillo, Aganovich at wwd.com, Dior, unknown at collagevintage.com, unknown.

 
DRAW YOUR OVERSIZE COAT
Once you have decided what details you want for your coat, start drawing how you want your coat to look. That will make the pattern cutting easier, cause while you are drawing you have to decide how you want your dress to look. For example you have to decide the length of the coat, which sleeves should be added, the length of the sleeves, if there should be some intersections, openings etc. We have made some simple illustrations of how to add different details to the oversize coat which you can use as inspiration.


Illustrations of different oversize coats  by CUT UP STUDIO 
From left: Double breasted overzice coat,  double breasted overzice coat with lapel and collar, single breasted overzice coat with a one-piece-collar and moved shoulderseam, double breasted overzice coat with trench coat collar and raglan sleeves.

 


FIND YOUR INSTRUCTIONS
Once you have drawn how you want your coat to look like, you can find the different instructions you need. To get to the oversize silhouette of all the coats above, you can use the following instructions:


The basic coat block, the oversize coat, the basic one-piece oversize coat sleeve


Read our blog post How to use our instructions on basic blocks if you want to learn how to make a basic block.


With these three instructions you can make a basic coat that you can make into an oversized coat. When you are satisfied with the shape of your coat you can add the details you want. We have used the following instructions for our illustrations:


The lapel/collar 2 double breasted, collars - basic instructions, the trench coat ,

the raglan sleeve

 

MAKE YOUR FULL SIZE PATTERN
As you may have noticed already, our instructions are not instructions on a finished pattern, but instructions on the different types of silhouettes and details you can find within pattern cutting, such as how to make a specific type of collar, a specific type of sleeve or a specific type of silhouette.

You can combine instructions on different parts and get exactly the pattern you want. Once you have found the instructions you need, you can start making your pattern. Below we have drawn the pattern for the double breasted oversize coat with a lapel and collar.


Quarter size pattern on the double breasted oversize coat with a lapel and collar by CUT UP STUDIO

 

Be a part of our community for pattern makers here and show us what you make from our instructions. Share your ideas, tips and tricks. 

 

Let us know what you think!


Best regards

Helle & Christina


CUT UP STUDIO 

 

HOW TO USE OUR INSTRUCTIONS ON BASIC BLOCKS

Are you new in pattern cutting? Or do you want to practice drafting the basic blocks?

In this post we review in quarter size how to make the basic dress block.


Read more


HOW TO PRINT OUR INSTRUCTIONS IN THE CORRECT SIZE

All our instructions are published as PDF-files, which means you can read them on all your devices.


Read more

HOW TO MAKE A SIMPLE SLEEVE FOR YOUR DRESS BLOCK

Do you want to learn how to create sewing patterns? In this post we review in quarter size how to make a simple sleeve for your dress block.


Read more

PATTERN OF THE WEEK:

THE JUMPSUIT

In this week we have chosen to look into the jumpsuit as it is the type of garment that both has an exciting history and has endless possibilities in its appearance.


Read more


PATTERN OF THE WEEK:

THE A-LINE DRESS

The A-line silhouette is currently a silhouette which is seen more and more, both as dresses but also as shirts and skirts.


Read more


DEVELOPING OUR TUTORIALS

We have been online for almost half a year and we would like to tell you a bit about our work and how we develop our instructions on pattern cutting.

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